On the third day, we finally walked in the same direction as most people on the track.

There was no water taxi and no boat time to meet. We had an afternoon flight from Nelson to Auckland, so the plan was simply to head north from Mārahau and walk as far as time allowed.

The track begins behind Park Cafe. In front of the cafe is a free car park where walkers leave their cars before shouldering their packs and entering the national park.

We left our car there too. Our pack held only warm water and snacks.

From the car park, the way to the coast first crosses the bridge over the Mārahau estuary.

A bird stood on the bridge.

It faced the water from the rail and did not move as people passed. We walked by it, and that was how our third day began.

The sign at the entrance listed the places ahead: Porters Beach, Tinline Bay, Coquille Bay and Apple Tree Bay. Beyond them were Stillwell Bay, Akersten Bay, Watering Cove and Anchorage.

We had not made any of them a deadline.

The track followed the estuary into the forest. Trees hid the sea, with only an occasional line of water showing through the leaves.

For nearly twenty years, travelling with our daughters had meant checking clothes, food, rooms and the next part of the route. Now there were only two of us, and the pack felt almost too light to need checking.

When we were tired, we stopped. When the sea appeared, we looked a little longer.

Around Porters Beach and Tinline Bay, the track rose and fell gently between forest and shore. At low tide the estuary spread into pale sand, crossed by a few narrow, bending streams.

Farther on, a small patch of blue appeared between the branches. As we came closer, the whole bay opened.

This was Apple Tree Bay.

Some people had taken off their shoes and were walking through the shallows. Others sat on driftwood facing the water. We stopped there too.

Katherine sat on a piece of wood and lifted the brim of her hood to look at the sky.

We ate some of the food we had brought and stayed by the water a little longer. The track continued, but the airport lay in the other direction.

So we turned back.

Because we now knew where the path led, the return seemed quicker.

By the time we reached Mārahau, the bird from the bridge was gone.

After the walk, Katherine stayed at Park Cafe for lunch. I crossed the small bridge diagonally opposite and went alone to Fat Tui.

I had heard its burgers were famous. When mine arrived, I put my fist beside it for scale.

My fist lost.

Afterwards, we collected our luggage and drove to the airport.

There was no boat on the third day.

We walked ourselves back.